Hello there! It’s been awhile, but I decided it’s high time I shared reviews of some of my sewing projects from the last couple years. It turns out having a toddler and a full-time job leave little time for sewing, let alone writing about it.
I decided to dip my toes back in because there were so few online reviews of this gorgeous Ailyn Dress pattern from Vikisews!
I was looking for a simple, elegant dress pattern to make for a wedding with a cocktail leaning formal dress code. This pattern struck me for its simple lines and lovely drape, as it’s cut on the bias.
I’d never made a bias cut dress and let me say: IT WAS A BIT OF A DOOZY. But I love how it turned out, and I have some tips if you’re interesting in making your own bias cut dress.
Size: 40 graded to 42 in hips (equivalent to ~8 to 10 in U.S.), height 4 (for heights 5’10” – 6’0″). I love that Vikisews offers their patterns in 4 different heights. I’m 6’0″ so I typically have to add inches in the torso, but I didn’t make any length alterations to the pattern this time.
Fabric: Silky 100% polyester from Joann Fabrics
Notions: One (1) 3/8″ button
Alterations: I sewed this with facings instead of fully lining it. Colette has a good tutorial on how to draft your own facings.
Before cutting my fabric, I took the annoying and time-consuming step of stabilizing the fabric with Sullivan’s Fabric Stabilizer Spray. This is another tip I picked up from Colette, and I’m certain it made the cutting and sewing process about 1000x easier.
How to Use Spray Stabilizer on Silky Fabrics
Take your fabric outside (the spray is pungent) and spray liberally
Hang your fabric to dry
Cut and sew per pattern instructions
Wash your garment when finished
The hardest part is carving out the time to do it! But you won’t regret it, I swear. Silky fabric is MUCH easier to handle and sew when stabilized. It doesn’t stretch out as easily and develops a stiffer drape. And it completely washes out, so you don’t have to worry about ruining your fabric.
The Verdict
I love this dress! It was fun to wear and draped really nicely in all the right places. If I make it again I’ll likely sew a straight size 42 instead of 40 to 42 graded at the hips, because it was about as snug as I’d like it to be.
I sewed this back in September so I’m struggling to remember much more than this, but please comment if you have any specific questions.
I literally got just ONE photo of Marc and me at the wedding, so here are some detail shots for a closer look.
Front facingBack facingBaby hemBack of dress with rouleau loop closure
Until next time! Thanks for reading and have a great holiday.
I am a Halloween fiend. Ever since I started making my own costumes, the stakes seem to get higher and higher each year. This year, in particular, I felt the pressure because it was EVIE’S FIRST HALLOWEEN!!!
Boo! Evie at 4.5 months old
I was impatiently waiting for inspiration to strike, and trying to figure out how to make the most out of my daughter’s hilarious and adorable male pattern baldness. That’s when my friend said, “What about Picard?” And the rest is history. Marc and I aren’t Trekkies (so please forgive me for any egregious errors haha), but we both grew up with The Next Generation TV show and movies. And we just so happened to resemble a few of the crew members!
The whole fam in our DIY Star Trek Halloween costumes!
Evie as Captain Jean-Luc Picard
Evie in her DIY baby Star Trek onesie
Marc as Will Riker
Marc in his DIY Will Riker Star Trek Uniform
Me as Ms. Data
my DIY female Data Star Trek uniform
Here are my hair and makeup deets:
Eyes: I wore these yellow contacts—they’re prescription! I wear contacts daily and these were pretty comfortable, aside from my vision being ever-so-slightly obscured by the opaque yellow irises
Makeup: Sponged Maybelline Instant Age Rewind concealer (in Warm Light) all over my face and then brushed with Revlon PhotoReady Candid Glow foundation (in porcelain) all over, including my lips; brushed a bit of bronzer on my cheeks for definition and then added metallic gold eyeshadow on my cheeks, nose, eyes and forehead
Cora as Dr. Crusher
Cora in her DIY Star Trek dog outfit
Tutorial – DIY Star Trek Costumes
This tutorial is designed for people with advanced beginner/intermediate-level sewing skills. It assumes you have the basic supplies needed for sewing (i.e., sewing machine, serger (optional), iron, seam ripper, etc.).
Step 1: Gather Your Supplies
Here’s what you’ll need to make your own Star Trek crew uniforms:
Sewing patterns:
Baby: Easy Onesie by Mama Can Do It (size 3-6 months)
Adult: Strathcona T-shirt by Thread Theory Designs (size S), but you can use any crew-neck T-shirt or sweatshirt pattern you already have on hand!
Dog: I traced off one of Cora’s sweatshirts so I don’t have a pattern, but this pattern is pretty close to what I drafted
Knitfabric: black, burgundy, and blue cotton/spandex blends, all from Girl Charlee; yellow knit from JoAnn (I bought this in the store, but I THINK that link is correct…)
For the sake of this tutorial, I’m only going to show how I altered the adult sewing pattern. Marc and I pretty much wear the same size, so I was lucky and only had to do this for one pattern between the two of us!
The basic steps are:
Use a ruler to draw “cut” lines across the upper chest, the side panels, the V at the front and back, and the sleeve V
TIP: Cut one side panel line first, and then fold your pattern in half and trace the “cut” line for the other side panel; this way you only need one pattern piece to cut the fabric for both side panels
TIP: Use the sleeve notches on your sewing pattern to guide where to make the upper chest and sleeve “cut” lines; you’ll want to be as accurate as possible here so the black/color fabric matches up when you attach the sleeves
Add seam allowance (SA) everywhere you cut the pattern; you can do this on the pattern, or use a marking tool to add SA to the fabric itself
Clearly mark each new piece (i.e., FRONT, BLACK or FRONT, YELLOW)
I think it’s a lot easier to digest this visually, so here you go!
Step 3: Cut Out Your Fabric
This step is pretty straightforward. If you’re adding your SA straight to the fabric itself, I suggest using a chalk marking tool and ruler to add 1/2″ SA to each seam.
Step 4: Sew the Points
Ah, now for the most tedious part of the costumes. I referenced the Grainline Studio Lark Tee V Neck tutorial to sew the V-shaped points on the body and sleeves. Click through my slideshow below to see the steps!
1. Staystitch the concave part of the V
2. Clip to but NOT through the point of the V
3. If you haven’t already, draw your seam allowances on the convex part of the V
4. Pin both pieces, right sides together, matching seam allowances; there should be a diamond-shaped chunk of fabric (black here) visible
5. Use a straight stitch to sew right sides together, taking care to get as close to the clipped point as you can; you’ll probably need to lift the presser foot and pivot to sew the other side, and don’t forget to remove the stay stitches!
6. Gently press the seam open, and then press the both seams toward the colored fabric
7. Gently press from the right side (use a pressing cloth to be safe!) and finish your seams as desired (honestly, I just left ’em instead of serging for the sake of time)
Step 5: Finish Sewing the Shirt
Once you’ve completed the V-shaped points, CONGRATS! The rest of the shirt is a breeze. I used a serger for most seams, but you could easily finish this on a regular sewing machine with a ballpoint needle and stretch stitch.
Simply sew the respective side panels and top panels to the front and back, and then sew the shirt per the pattern’s directions. Take care to match up the color-blocked portions when attaching the sleeves.
I ended up finishing mine and Marc’s shirts with a 3/4″ turned-up hem instead of finishing with bands as the pattern calls for.
Step 6: Add the Patches and Pips
Iron on, then sew
Hole puncher = perfect cutout!
Ironed on
Patches:Iron on first, and then sew along the insignia for durability
Collar pips: Cut them out with a hole puncher, and iron on per package directions
P.S. I KNOW Data has one hollow pip. Sue me. 🤣)
WHEW! I think that’s it. Leave a comment if you have any additional questions!
Now for some more gratuitous Halloween photos.
Sometimes Captain Picard needs a bib and a binkyThe secrets of the galaxy, all held within this orbDr. Crusher keeping watch as Riker has a well-deserved beerTeam Hedgehog and Team Star Trek meet at last!
Hello friends! It’s been awhile. If you know me personally or follow me on Instagram, you know that I’m having a baby girl in July! 🤰🏻👶🏻💗 👨👩👧
I’m 22.5 weeks along as I write this post, and I can officially no longer button my jeans. (I just bought one of these belly bands and it came with some free waistband extenders. So far they’re all working out nicely.)
My current plan is to buy/sew as few maternity-specific pieces as I can. We’ll see how that goes! I’m fortunate to work from home, which means that leggings have been a staple in my weekday wardrobe even prior to getting pregnant, and now they are a downright necessity! I’ve been getting by primarily in said comfy leggings (Lululemon Align leggings are a true godsend—shoutout to my girl Maddie for clueing me in on this!) and knit dresses if I’m feeling fancy (hello True Bias Rio Ringer).
But sometimes leggings get old. And restricting. Enter the True Bias Nova Jumpsuit. I love a good jumpsuit and think they look kind of adorable whether you’re preggers or not, so I figured this could be a good transitional piece for me as my belly grows and when I’m postpartum.
We took these photos when I was about 20.5 weeks, and it still fits about the same today. Fingers crossed that’s the case for awhile! I’ll do a bumpdate post in a couple months to see where I’m at.
My measurements: 6’0″ tall; 39″ B x 31.5″ W x 41″ H; taken at 22.5 weeks pregnant
Size: 10
Alterations: I added 3″ total to the length; 1″ each at the bust, hips and legs at lengthen/shorten lines
The Verdict
I love it! I typically wear a size 8 in True Bias patterns, and I think the 10 feels plenty roomy for now. This pattern has a lot of ease built into it, and my fabric has a pretty good amount of stretch and recovery—I hope that’s a recipe for a forgiving garment.
For my #sewingtall peeps: If I make this again, I will add 2″ to the lengthen/shorten line at the legs for a total of 4″ of length added for me.
Some fiddly things:
I didn’t love the method for finishing the straps. See the sew along for more details and photos. Someone left a comment with my exact thoughts: “Can I ask why we close the straps this way? I struggled getting a clean finish because of all of the seam allowance bulk… If I make the jumpsuit again I will choose to use a more traditional facing method.” I agree Kelly the commenter! My straps look a little messy, but my navy fabric is pretty forgiving so they don’t bother me too much.
I initially machine-tacked the lining down to the center seams in front and back, but I felt like that left some noticeable pulling in those spots from the right side. I ended up unpicking, understitching about 4″ of the lining to the serged seam allowance on the front and back, and then hand-stitching that down. It’s still not perfectly smooth, but the lining seems to be staying in place better now with less noticeable pulling from the outside.
I’d say if you’re on the fence with this pattern, give it a shot. It seems pretty versatile when it comes to styling: wear it with something layered underneath, with a jacket/sweater on top, or on its own when it’s warmer.
What would my blog be without a derp-faced outtake?
My sewjo’s back! At least for now. After I spent late winter into spring and summer… lethargic, shall we say, in terms of creativity, it’s been refreshing to feel inspired to sew something other than the umpteenth mask. (More on my favorite mask pattern below!)
It seems like folks handled their extra time at home starting in March in one of two ways:
“Now that the world’s slowed down, I finally have time to tackle [XYZ creative project] and I’m going to pour my soul into it!”
“Have the days somehow gotten shorter and more stressful? Even though I now work from home full time?! Can’t wait to sink into my couch after work and watch another mindless hour of [reality TV show (RHONY for me)].”
Of course, I’m generalizing. My husband and I have been lucky enough to keep our nonessential jobs and I’m very, very grateful for that. And we don’t have any kids to wrangle/teach/keep alive! But I couldn’t bring myself to sew anything but masks for weeks, and eventually I became fatigued even with that.
Then one hot weekend in June, I felt a spark of inspiration. I had some floaty linen leftover from the Negroni Shirt I made for Marc’s wedding present and figured it’d be a great match for the Ogden Cami. I sewed a wearable muslin in 2018 but hadn’t gotten around to making a “real” version, despite this pattern popping up in my feed constantly—there are more than 18,000 posts using the #ogdencami tag!
I could have finished this simple top in a day, from cutting out the fabric to the final press, but I took my time to avoid putting pressure (… like ANY pressure) on myself. And guess what: The less pressure I felt, the more time I wanted to spend sewing. After I finished the cami, I felt revived and made this chicken-scratch list with a few more summer sewing goals:
Three items = very manageable.
I’m good at making to-do lists when it comes to my day job, but I struggle with writing down my personal goals. Let me tell you, scribbling those messy check marks felt SO GOOD.
Fabric:Bamboo jersey (66% Bamboo, 28% Cotton, 6% Spandex) from Oak Fabrics
Size: Medium
The Verdict: Love it! Sophie Hines designed this tank as lingerie, but clearly lots of people are wearing it as a top and activewear, too. The body of the tank sews up FAST since it only has shoulder seams and one back seam. If you’ve made a knit top before with bindings, then this will be a piece of cake. I used my serger for everything, which means the seam allowance was 3/8″ instead of 1/4″ but it turned out fine. The directions call for you to use a three-step zig zag to stitch the bindings down, but I ignored that. If I make this to wear as a top again, I’ll probably add length and redraw the armhole curve to increase the coverage—even my lil bralette peeks out the side a bit. I also made a scoop-neck version in a rust rib-knit, but I should have made the bands a lot shorter since they are a little gapey. Every knit has a mind of its own, so I’ll probably baste next time like Jasika suggests!
Fabric:Double gauze from Oak Fabrics for the main fabric, leftover rayon for the pocket lining, and leftover grey knit ribbing for the waistband
Size/Alterations: 40, although honestly I took them in so much I’m sure I could have sized down
The Verdict: The shorts are comfy, but they bag out a bit after several hours of wear. I probably could have predicted that given the fluidity of the double gauze. Also, I have no idea if this pattern is available anywhere except the magazine…? Marc got me a subscription for our first wedding anniversary (v. cute paper-themed gift), and all of the patterns featured throughout the magazine are included in paper format. I’m excited to see what they have in store for fall and read some more of the translations, like “Sewing makes you happy. Particularly when such cheery wrapped pieces are the result” Yeah, sure, great!
Sleeveless Button-Down
Pattern: Butterick B6324, a hybrid of views C and A (I’m also wearing the Burda shorts here, too!)
Size/Alterations: 14, added 1″ of length at the waist
The Verdict: With no darts, no yoke, no collar stand—just the peter pan collar, this top comes together pretty easily. It also helps that I made it once before in a slightly different view. It’s pretty boxy, but I knew that going in and I like it! The fabric has some interesting texture (see last photo) that livens up an otherwise straightforward top. I don’t have any hip-length sleeveless button-downs in my closet, so this definitely fills a void.
Fabric/Materials: Marc’s old plaid shirt and Rifle Paper Co. rayon, with an old bedsheet for the lining; 1/8″ elastic from Amazon
The Verdict:Marc’s mom shared this link with me, and it’s my favorite mask pattern thus far. I’ve made pleated and fitted masks (there are about a billion patterns and tutorials out there, as you likely know), and this “3D Fitted Mask” is the comfiest yet. It fits comfortably over the nose and chin and doesn’t move around when I talk. I also find the elastic linked above to be easy on the ears, though I’m rarely wearing my mask for more than an hour at a time. Feel free to reach out if you have questions!
Whether you’re brimming with creative energy or you’re in a prolonged—potentially pandemic-induced—rut, I just want you to know that YOU’RE AWESOME and it’s OK to feel uninspired. Your hobby will be waiting with open arms when you’re ready.
The True Bias Rio Ringer pattern came across my Instagram feed at exactly the right moment. I’d been living in leggings ridden with holes (that I just can’t bring myself to throw away because they’re SO SOFT), T-shirts, and zip-up hoodies. Not that there’s anything wrong with dressing like that—I think we’re all allowed to dress however we want right now. But I’ve also found that putting in even the minimal amount of effort can really boost my mood and make me stand a little taller at my “alternative” standing desk… made of board games and cookbooks.Read More »
I am proud to share my latest contribution to the verrrrry Slow Fashion movement: Megan Nielsen Dawn Jeans! Nearly six months after buying the fabric and notions, they’re finally done. Whew!
I put “Finish what you start” and “Finish MN Dawn Jeans” (for double whammy good measure) on my list of 2020 goals, giving myself the perfect amount of accountability without too much pressure. That’s definitely how I like my hobbies lately!
It’s been awhile, folks! After a—gasp—eight-month blogging hiatus, I’m back. For the past several months, I had resigned myself to the duties of being a bride: Sending save-the-dates, reserving hotel blocks, creating what was deemed to be an acceptable registry, making a wedding website, booking vendors, following up with said vendors, choosing music, buying wedding favors, deciding where in God’s name everyone will sit… and about a bajillion other tiny decisions that I’ve already expunged from my memory.
The wedding came and went this June. It was fantastic, and I’ll post photos here when we receive them from our amazing photographer.
Almost two years ago, I made my first Toaster Sweater #1 by Sew House Seven. I even braved the cold and snow for some photos! After seeing about a million cute versions of the Toaster Sweater #2, I decided I needed to try it out. I was not, however, as brave with the cold this time, so… thus begins the season of questionably lit indoor photos!Read More »
Sewing & Cocktails 